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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
?
this is the approx beginnig of production with the "new" trigger

ktwm said:
[quote author=pocketgun link=1209446965/15#17 date=1210398333][quote author=rcmodel link=1209446965/0#3 date=1209484471]I could care less about "second strike" capability.
If you have a mis-fire, it's time for the "Tap-Rack-Bang" drill.

What I would really like to see fixed is the snap-off-the-hammer-block design defect.

The K-T is the only firearm I know of that can be put out of action by short-stroking the trigger!

It should either go into free-wheeling mode like most auto pistols & revolvers, or lock up tighter then a bulls patootie and not do anything when you short stroke the trigger.

If you mess up and snap off the hammer block, the only fix is a two-hand slide rack to get back in action.

And that there just ain't right!

You might not have two hands available while fighting off an assailant.

A short trigger stroke should be an automatic reset by just releasing and pulling it again, like all other guns.

rcmodel
A huge +1 from me on everything he said. [/quote]


SHHHH!!
Don't tell Ruger, but this improvement is just starting to ship. :)
no more snapping off the hammer-block for P-32, P-3AT, and PF-9's
From now on, only Ruger LCP's will be snapping off the hammer block (until Ruger purchases a new P-3AT that is). :p...[/quote]

ktwm said:
...You will still hear the same clicks, but if you try to pull the trigger after the first click you will not be able to drop the hammer and you will have to release the trigger all the way forward, and then pull the trigger, like you usually have to. The only difference this improvement makes is that you will never be able to drop the hammer off of the hammer block, the feel (and sound) of the trigger will not change.

You can still short-stroke the trigger, if you do not fully release it, but then nothing will happen and you will know you short stroked it (instead of hearing the hammer fall off the hammer block and assuming the gun light striked when the round did not go off).
ktwm said:
I just checked the serial numbers and it looks like the numbers below are pretty close to where the new improvement starts. There may be some overlap of old and new parts near these serial numbers but it gives you an Idea of what to look for.

P-32: CJQ00
P-3AT: JRW00
PF-9: R9800
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
From the post above from ktwm, can you tell if you have the "new trigger"
 

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The new trigger sysytem will lock up if you fail to release the trigger fully forward after firing. The old one would allow the trigger to be pulled, but would drop the hammer off the hammer block resulting in a light strike. If you test it, make sure to be safe. Either do it at the range or use snap caps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
JFB said:
....[quote author=ktwm link=1209446965/30#40 date=1211214471]...You will still hear the same clicks, but if you try to pull the trigger after the first click you will not be able to drop the hammer and you will have to release the trigger all the way forward, and then pull the trigger, like you usually have to.  The only difference this improvement makes is that you will never be able to drop the hammer off of the hammer block, the feel (and sound) of the trigger will not change.

You can still short-stroke the trigger, if you do not fully release it, but then nothing will happen and you will know you short stroked it (instead of hearing the hammer fall off the hammer block and assuming the gun light striked when the round did not go off).
....[/quote]
 

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TxCajun said:
The new trigger sysytem will lock up if you fail to release the trigger fully forward after firing.  The old one would allow the trigger to be pulled, but would drop the hammer off the hammer block resulting in a light strike.  If you test it, make sure to be safe.  Either do it at the range or use snap caps.
OK, I'm not sure this was a good test since I don't have a snap cap, nor did I fire a live round thru the gun.

I placed a fired cartridge in the breach and pulled the trigger all the way back allowing the hammer to fall. I held the trigger back for a second or two and then released the trigger. The trigger could then be pulled back without engaging the hammer.

What does that tell you? Does my gun have the new trigger? ;D

Old Bill
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Nope

Once you snap on the spent round
HOLD the trigger all the way
you need to "reset" the hammer by pull the slide back 1/4" then return to battery
Now slowly release the trigger about 1/2 way, you should hear a click
See what happens if you pull the trigger
1) if you fell 6# resistance and the hammer just falls...you have the original
since I haven't felt a new trigger, I'm not sure, but i think
2) the trigger will either go back and nothing happen or the trigger will not be able to be pulled back
If it is 2
then release the trigger fully
then you should be able to pull the trigger and the hammer snap the round
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Here is a writeup I did for the original trigger. It is best to observe this with the slide removed. You need to put your thumb in front of the hammer so it dosent impact the frame

The itilacs is the description of short stroking the original trigger

JFB said:
...
But here is what I feel WRT to trigger travel (as measured at center trigger)

with the hammer reset ( the face about 30 degrees past TDC
about 0.2" travel with only 1# pull, then the pull changes to 5#
as the trigger is pulled now, the hammer is going back towards 90 degress past TDC
after another 0.4" travel (0.6" total travel) at 5 to 6# pull, the hammer falls (goes about 10 degress foward of TDC) and the pull changes back to 1#
another 0.1" and trigger is all the way back.

I can now stroke the trigger foward and back the 0.7" total travel with 1# pull.

with the trigger pulled all the way back, I reset the hammer (have to depress the trigger disconnect down also)
slowly releasing the trigger with the pull at 1#
at 0.2" travel returning (0.5" total travel) I here the first click.
IF i now pull the trigger back, the pull increases back to 6#.
As the trigger is pulled, the hammer stays at the reset (about 30 degrees past TDC)
at 0.1" travel pulled (0.6" total) the hammer falls (10 degrees foward of TDC)

with the trigger pulled all the way back, I reset the hammer (have to depress the trigger disconnect down also)
slowly releasing the trigger with the pull at 1#
at 0.2" travel returning (0.5" total travel) I here the first click.
I continue to release the trigger for another 0.4" (0.1" total) I hear the second click
Now the action is back to as normal.

>--X----X-|
<-X----X--|

Now the new trigger should replace the itilacs with...

with the trigger pulled all the way back, I reset the hammer (have to depress the trigger disconnect down also)
slowly releasing the trigger with the pull at 1#
at 0.2" travel returning (0.5" total travel) I here the first click.
IF i now pull the trigger back, .....You need to tell use
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
CandRFan said:
I've got JRW71.

Nice forum.  [smiley=vrolijk_26.gif]
Now, can you tell if you have the new trigger?

BTW welcome to KTOG
 

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JFB said:
Nope

Once you snap on the spent round
HOLD the trigger all the way
you need to "reset" the hammer by pull the slide back 1/4" then return to battery
Now slowly release the trigger about 1/2 way, you should hear a click
See what happens if you pull the trigger
1) if you fell 6# resistance and the hammer just falls...you have the original
since I haven't felt a new trigger, I'm not sure, but i think
2) the trigger will either go back and nothing happen or the trigger will not be able to be pulled back
If it is 2
then release the trigger fully
then you should be able to pull the trigger and the hammer snap the round
OK, I did the above, and after resetting the hammer, and releasing the trigger 1/2 way, I did hear a click. Then when I pulled the trigger back it may have moved back about 1/8-inch and stopped. Hammer did not move. When I then released the trigger all the way forward and pulled back on the trigger the hammer did fall.

So I guess my P-3AT, SN: JS6XX does have the new trigger since it acts like # 2) above.

What do you think?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
:cool:

I believe you are the FIRST.

That sounds like it makes the gun MUCH more reliable in a SD sititation,

for the old trigger if you short stroke...you need to rack and loose a round


WHEN, you pull the trigger back that 1/8" and nothing happens

how much do you say the trigger pull weight would be?
 

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JFB said:
:cool:

I believe you are the FIRST.

That sounds like it makes the gun MUCH more reliable in a SD sititation,

for the old trigger if you short stroke...you need to rack and loose a round


WHEN, you pull the trigger back that 1/8" and nothing happens

how much do you say the trigger pull weight would be?
I just now retested the trigger several times. When I pull the trigger after hearing the click the trigger moves freely back without any pull weight. After it moves a short distance (1/8' to 1/4") it stops solidly with the back of the trigger about 1/4" from the gun's handle.

Please keep in mind that I'm no expert when it comes to testing gun functions. I've always just loaded them and shot them!! But, I've alway faithfully cleaned them every few years whether they really needed it or not! ::) ::)
 
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