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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, my parkerized 380 had no visual defect's on the slide until I fired 12 rds thru it...Trust me it is a visual thing and I don't expect a Lexus when paying for a Prius...........It would appear that some of the Parkerized finish is coming of or such...I tried to take a couple of pic's..There are 2 area's, one is above the firing pin, the other is on the top and side of the slide, just forward of the rear sight...
I am not a big fan of Parkerized weapon's, but this was all that was available...i really expected the finsh to last more that 2 mag's...I may take some more pic's with different lighting...new one..





 

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Marks near the ejection port are normal. My P-3AT gets them, but they should be able to be rubbed of with a gun cleaner.

That said, your slide looks like it has a bad Parkerizing job. The Park'ed finish should not be flaking off. Also the stains near the rear sight are not a good sign.

If I were you I would call Kel-Tec at 1-800-515-9983 or 321-631-0068 (M-F 8-4 EST) and ask for Service. Explain the problem. They will probably just replace the slide, no charge.

Bobo
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah, luck of the draw I reckon...I am a KT advocate, I can put up with some roughness and minor imperfections with the finish..BUT with only 12 rds down the tube and the flaking occured...The pistol went from 100 % NIB to who know's...Shoulda listen to my wife... :-[
 

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parkerizing is not an applied finish so it should not flake, it does appear though that the marks near the breech are normal from the brass leaving the chamber, however the marks towards the rear of the slide appear to be rust forming; both shoudlb e easily remidied with some 0000 steel wool, and a good gun oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
P-3aT_ShoTTer said:
parkerizing is not an applied finish so it should not flake, it does appear though that the marks near the breech are normal from the brass leaving the chamber, however the marks towards the rear of the slide appear to be rust forming; both shoudlb e easily remidied with some 0000 steel wool, and a good gun oil.
Sorry for the bad pic's, what appears to be rust is just a shiney surface ...No rust...If there were oil or such on the slide during the parkerizing, that would not allow the acid etching...Correct?...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The more I dwell on the slide finish problem, the madder I get...My New in Box PF9 HC, had a marred slide..

Pissed me off at first, but I knew it would not get any worse, that was 3 or so year's ago...
Now this , on my P3AT....yeah, yeah, they will fix it, I guess...5 to 6 weeks turnaround...Who needs it ?

Maybe I'll settle down tomorrow, or I might continue to rant....Still pissed...
 

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PshootR said:
Jimenez pistols probably have a better looking finish as a rule.
...
True ;D ;D ;D
 

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Now this , on my P3AT....yeah, yeah, they will fix it, I guess...5 to 6 weeks turnaround...Who needs it ?
Took them a week to get mine to me. Along with a few extra parts I didn't ask for. This will give you a chance to upgrade from a park'ed slide to HC or some such.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
At this point I am leaning on not sending the pistol back to KT...I guess my inital disgust with the finish has subsided...KT offered for me to send the pistol (at my expense) and do the warranty work...They will be closed from Dec 19th thru Jan 3rd....
Hey it's just a cheap pistol, why sweat the small stuff?...If it does not get any worse, I can live with it...

:(
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
P-3aT_ShoTTer said:
Simple fix, DURACOAT.
Not so simple, I don't have a airbrush...Also, duracoat can be applied directly over a parkerized finsh, with no surface prep, other than degreasing, BUT, the area's I have a problem with, would most likely need some additional prep...Afraid it would look like a speckled pup.... :-?
 

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if it bothers you that much then send it in. KT's are working guns they are not show pieces and frakly who gives a care what the finish looks like, the only time someone should see it is just before the report anyway. I undertand you not wanting it to rust or degrade but proper maintence will prevent this even with bare steel.

Re: DURACOAT it is much easier to apply than you realize, they do sell a starterkit and you can get an airbrush for less than $15 at most hobby shops. The great thing about it is that if there are areas that need more work you just add more coates in that area to bring up the finish to an even surface.

here's my edc with a duracoat slide that I did in my garage approx 2yrs ago in 30* temps. I used the color Parker.







 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Good looking job...Back to mine, I really wasn't looking for a project job...It's tempting to attempt the duracoat...No offense, but it might be like putting mag wheels on a Yugo...You can , but why ?... ;)
25 years ago, I would have atempted the coating...Might still... ::)

P-3aT_ShoTTer said:
if it bothers you that much then send it in. KT's are working guns they are not show pieces and frakly who gives a care what the finish looks like, the only time someone should see it is just before the report anyway. I undertand you not wanting it to rust or degrade but proper maintence will prevent this even with bare steel.

Re: DURACOAT it is much easier to apply than you realize, they do sell a starterkit and you can get an airbrush for less than $15 at most hobby shops. The great thing about it is that if there are areas that need more work you just add more coates in that area to bring up the finish to an even surface.

here's my edc with a duracoat slide that I did in my garage approx 2yrs ago in 30* temps. I used the color Parker.







 

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I never really look at it, but my slide was splotchy when I got it. No rust or anything, though, after about four years of pocket carry.
 
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