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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
After getting my gen1 running right I am now ready to work up some loade for accuracy. Can anyone give me a good starting place? Do these things generally like hot heavy loads or more to the lighter side. About where should I be looking in velocity. I know each is different but just looking for what they seem to like in general rather than starting compleatly blind. As of now I am getting about a four inch " pattern" at 25 yards. I am sure it's the load. I need to find what it likes.
This is a 9mm Glock configeration
Thanks for the help
 

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All this stuff you mention are variables. Accuracy is a multivariable equation. That is, if you change one value, the other values may also need to change in order to get it back where you want it.

I always advise starting with ... the starter load for the round.
Velocity is a function of bullet mass. The heavier the bullet you use, the slower it will go. The slower it goes, the more it will drop due to gravity --- if 2 things go 100 yards, and one of them takes 10 seconds and one of them takes 5 seconds, the one going 10 seconds will fall much, much farther than the 5 second one because gravity is an acceleration! I prefer the lightest, fastest flying projectiles that are appropriate for my barrel. Bullet shape also matters but not as much on pistol as rifle. Still, aerodynamics and stability are crucial.

All that to say that for accuracy at long ranges in my 9mm Pistol (not your same gun, keep in mind!) I shoot a redline normal pressure (that is, not quite +P but close) 9mm with a 90 grain 380 projectile. Wife can make better groups with her pistol at 25 than you did with that rifle using whatever it was. Out of a rifle, those 90s would be pretty good consistency out to 100 yards easily. I can dig up the recipe if you want to try that, but I don't know what it would do in a rifle.

Also, remember the powder problem. Your tools have a "fixed" margin of error. That is, your scale is +- 0.1 grains or whatever, that is "fixed", for example. If you are using a mega hot uber powder that takes 3 grains for the load, that is 2.9 to 3.1 with the error thrown in. If you instead used a magnum powder that took 6 grains or something, that would be 5.9 to 6.1 with error. Which should tell you that your error is twice as good with the 6 grain powder load!

If you get really serious you can weigh each projectile before you use it, keeping only identicals. You would be amazed at the variation in cheap bullet weights.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Yeah. I was just wondering if the k2000's in general have a preference. Light or heavy bullets, heavy or light charges. Just general stuff nothing exacting. I can find that. I was just trying to save a couple of trips out to test loads if I had a basic idea. I do know it doesn't like the same loads as my 995ts. So I guess that's something. The 995ts started out with worse accuracy than the K2000. After some work she shoots about 1.5" at 50 yards irons. I'll find what it likes just takes a little time.
 

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The 2k is 16 twist rate which is well suited to lighter bullets and faster travel. All around I again encourage you to try light & fast to see what it does. 1.5 at 50 with irons is very good, and from there you will see diminishing returns for your efforts, most likely. Unless the gun is locked down, that is probably more human error than the ammo! I think you can at least get it down to 2 or so. Maybe better... its not known for making a touching solid hole though. Its known for folding up, more than anything else.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The 2k is 16 twist rate which is well suited to lighter bullets and faster travel. All around I again encourage you to try light & fast to see what it does. 1.5 at 50 with irons is very good, and from there you will see diminishing returns for your efforts, most likely. Unless the gun is locked down, that is probably more human error than the ammo! I think you can at least get it down to 2 or so. Maybe better... its not known for making a touching solid hole though. Its known for folding up, more than anything else.
Thanks, Oh yeah I agree. She wasn't designed to be a tack driver. I understand. I just like to play with them to see how close I can get them to shoot. The 50yard group with the 995 is about as good as I can get er to shoot. I have about a .03grain window for those groups. Higher or lower they fade pretty fast.

I just took a look. My lightest is 100gr RN bullets. Checked the book and found a load to get me to about 1280fps or so. I see there are hotter loads but i don't have to powder for them on hand. I'll give them a try and see how they shoot. Gotta be better than what I am getting now. LOL
 

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I'm surprised you like bullets that light. For real long range shooting, heavier bullets tend to get through the air better and therefore do better at long range... for 5.56 compare 77gr to 55gr, both match ammo, and the former will do significantly better at long range.
 

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I'm surprised you like bullets that light. For real long range shooting, heavier bullets tend to get through the air better and therefore do better at long range... for 5.56 compare 77gr to 55gr, both match ammo, and the former will do significantly better at long range.
Most rifles *already* shoot relatively light weight bullets. This was about pistol shooting, where drop off at relatively short ranges (100-200 yards) becomes a serious effect. Both of your examples are 1/2 the weight or less of a 9mm, and have 3-4x the powder behind them, and are moving more than twice as fast, and are more aerodynamic. The physics are not easily compared.

A light 9mm shoots farther and flatter. Its not much, but its an edge, assuming the target is paper.
 

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I've been using 124 gr plated over 4.5 gr of WSF or HP 38/231.
Bottom left and right was sub 2k, all the rest were with a CZ Scorpion carbine at 25 yards. The sub was sighted in at 12 yards and shooting high at 25, my last shot was the bullseye on bottom left, then shot the right bottom of target. The CZ was sighted in at 25 yards and then shot the seven groups. All shots taken off a crappie wooden rest.
Picture of came out wrong, so now it's top and bottom right is sub 2k, all the rest the CZ.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Yeah that's the way it should shoot.

Hey let me ask a question. For the Gen1 9mm k2000 isn't it a 1-10 twist? Also is this carbine +P rated right? I want to be able to load max charges and want to make sure the carbine is rated for+P. I don't want to load +P just max normal pressure but want to extra safety. Since I will be working up loads for this thing. I'm gonna start with some 125 cast PC bullets and see if I can tighten the groups.

thanks
 

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Does anyone know if the parts are the same (other than the bolt itself, and how about weight of it?) for 9 vs 40? I imagine if it's rated for 40 it'll take +P 9 without a problem, but I'm guessing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yeah I looked to see if I could find anything on their wed site but doesn't mention it or I didn't see it. Looked at a couple of youtube to see if anyone mentioned it in the reviews but again no luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Yes that was mentioned. He said over time it would cause problems. The only reason I wanted to know is I like to keep a bit of breathing room when working up loads. If it were +P rated I would try some max normal loads in my testing. If it is not +P rated I will stop a bit before the safe max load. Of course looking for over pressure signs as I work them up.
 

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They are not rated for a regular diet of it. It can be used in limited amounts, and as a SD load.
thumbs, 3wbdriver has it on down ~ I've run +P on several occasions, but not on a regular basis. I do shoot full-powered ammo more often than not without any problems, as the heavy brass bolt works well. Me thinks a bit of moderation is a good thing.
 
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