1st gen p3at multiple issues.

Discussion in 'P-3AT' started by Bean, Dec 4, 2017 at 7:23 PM.

  1. Bean

    Bean Member

    7
    Monday
    Hello, I have purchased a FG.p3at. Seems mine does not like ammo, In any way. Lol. I like it because of its stubbornness. Let’s start by saying that within two boxes of 50 rounds, I had mabe 70 fire and around 30 fail to eject and feed. I have purchased from kt a new ejector and firing pin. With spring. Hope that changes things. I saw a post the other day where a guy Modified the extractor on the fg p3at. Has anyone done this and what should I know. Thanks for any response/info that you may have.
     
  2. Bean

    Bean Member

    7
    Monday
    To me there seems to be a very small amount more wear on th bottom part of the Extractor where it catches the round. Idk
     

  3. TxCajun

    TxCajun Administrator Staff Member Supporter

    Sep 7, 2004
    Texas
    Was the gun cleaned and lubed before firing? They must have lubrication. Grease on slide rails and hammer interface, oil elsewhere. What kind of ammo did you try? No Steele or aluminum, no cheapo ammo.

    If para 1 criteria was met, I would start with a new extractor and extractor spring, part #s 181 & 182. I think KT still makes some of those small parts for the first gen guns, but I'm not certain. Make it clear, when you order, that you need 1st Gen parts.

    Some of the 1st Gen guns were a pita. They needed polishing (fluff & buff). They could also be ammo-selective. For testing reliability, use only good quality, brass-cased fmj ammo, and try different makers. If you get it running right, then maybe test some SD rounds.

    Good luck and keep us posted.
    PS: hope you got it cheap. :)
     
    Last edited: Dec 4, 2017 at 8:19 PM
  4. Bean

    Bean Member

    7
    Monday
    I have installed a new firing pin + spring and ejector I used Remington fmj rounds which it likes a a lot more the the other cheap stuff I tried I believe the cheap stuff was steel cased :(. I will be picking up on some more ammo for it soon. And will post back with the results I pulled off the extractor and cleaned it really good. I will polish and oil everything well before trying to fire it again. I’m still wondering about this modification of the extractor. The bit more of wear on the lowere part of it has me concerned that it needs modifications. I will try to find the pictures I seen and post them here. Ty for your response. I will call Kel-Tec and see about getting a new ejector and spring.
     
  5. Bean

    Bean Member

    7
    Monday
    Another thing I was just thinking about; when I’m pulling the slide back on it it’s not a smooth feel. There is a point there it seems to grab a bit just before it fully cocks. It may be normal I’m not sure. Does anyone have a fg and does your slide have a slight grab to it when racking the slide? Ty for your time.
     
  6. cc-hangfire

    cc-hangfire Active Member

    178
    May 21, 2013
    You made me take my gen1 P3AT out of my pocket, unload it, and cycle the slide out of curiosity.

    The first 1/4” slide movement is easy. Then it is fairly difficult to get past the “hump” ( this would be due to leverage and geometry of the hammer beginning to be cocked), then fairly smooth effort & movement to the full rear position.

    Hope that helps.
     
    Last edited: Dec 7, 2017 at 12:43 PM
  7. TxCajun

    TxCajun Administrator Staff Member Supporter

    Sep 7, 2004
    Texas
    The gun probably could stand some judicious polishing, aka the fluff & buff. Start with 400 grit paper and carefully smooth the slide rails. They may have burrs, machine marks, wear marks, etc. Then polish the hammer interface, the flat area on the bottom of the slide. Usually the frame rails are ok. If you touch them up stay away from the anodizing. Next, polish the barrel lugs and the feedramp. If the barrel is hard chrome or parkerized, quit there. If the barrel is plain steel, polish the whole damn thing. Then switch to 800 or 1000 grit and repeat.

    This smooths most of the major metal components that contact one another and should make the gun run smoother and more reliably. If you're not askeerd to pop out the frame pins and pull out the aluminum block frame, you can polish the trigger bar too.

    Since this is an older gun, while you're ordering parts from KT, get some new recoil springs. As cheap as they are, I'd replace about all the springs eventually.
     
  8. Bean

    Bean Member

    7
    Monday
    Thanks again for all the great ideas here. I believe I will be taking your advice and ordering all the springs and a new extractor. To hang fire; I appreciate that I feel more comfortable that the slide is functioning correctly. I will order the parts today and wait until I have everything sanded polished oiled and replaced before I try to fire the Ol p3at again. I look forward to good results and I will keep in touch with the results. Thanks again to everyone here..
     
  9. TxCajun

    TxCajun Administrator Staff Member Supporter

    Sep 7, 2004
    Texas
    Yes, please come back to the thread when you are done and give us an update.
     
  10. Bean

    Bean Member

    7
    Monday
    I called Kel-Tec to order the parts. They sent me this email today. Mabe I should send it to them what do you guys think?

    Just talked to the gunsmith about your issues with the 1st Gen P3AT. They got a chuckle when I told them all the problems you were having and said you need to just send it in; don't waste your money on parts. It sounds like it's in dire need of many updates and a upgrade to the generation 2.

    I explained it was a used gun and they said the "only charge" would be the return shipping which we calculate at our discounted FedEx rate, which is maybe $20.- $25. Unless you really did some damage to the gun, which I'm sure you did not; only then would they charge an additional $40. labor charge on top of return shipping. They did not think these parts would help because it could be anything including the old hammer block. (turnaround time 2-3 weeks)

    Package it up well including the info mentioned below. If you do send it yourself, I would suggest saying it is “machined parts” when shipping to save you money and aggravation. Technically if it is not working and disassembled it is considered machined parts. Include info listed below:
    Contact and Return Information: A way to contact you if any questions arise while we are servicing your firearm and the shipping address where the firearm should be returned to once service has been completed.

    A Letter Describing the Issue: Please include a detailed letter describing the issue occurring with your firearm.
    Please place these items in the box with your firearm and ship them to:

    Kel-Tec CNC Industries, Inc.
    Attn: Service Dept.
    1505 Cox Road
    Cocoa, FL. 32926

    Let me know if you want me to proceed with your order for the following parts:
    • Extractor Kit 1st gen $6.00
    • Complete hammer spring $4.00
    • In & out recoil springs 190 & 191 $2.00
    • US Mail S&H $3.00
    Also below are those instruction I told you about. Let me know if I should continue with the order or not.
    Thanks for contacting Kel-Tec Customer Service! Let us know if you need anything else; we’re always here to help!

    Best regards,





    Kel-Tec P-300
    P-3AT/ P-32
    Grip Replacement

    1. Disassemble pistol per instructions in manual. That is, remove the

    assembly pin (Part # 110) then the slide (Part #152), barrel (Part #100), and recoil springs (Part #190 & 191).

    2. Drive out both polymer frame pins (Part # 202)

    DO NOT Drive Out the Metal Hammer Block Axis(Part #274)

    3. Carefully grab hammer spring (Part # 275) by inserting a narrow,

    pointed, L-shaped tool, such as a scribe, pick, or wire in between

    the hammer spring (Part # 275) and hammer spring pin (Part # 274).

    4. Carefully pull down on the hammer spring (Part # 275) with tool, rotate

    90 degrees, and slowly relieve tension by letting the hammer spring

    catch (Part # 279) retract into the magazine well. (Care must be taken not to

    stretch the hammer spring more than absolutely necessary, during removal or assembly)

    5. Carefully remove frame (Part # 210) sub-assembly from grip.

    6. Partially reinstall frame (Part # 210)sub-assembly into the new grip

    leaving the rear of the frame (Part # 210) about ¼ inch above the inner

    flat surface of grip (Part # 300).

    7. Using a long, small diameter instrument, such as a scribe or nail, push

    the hammer block (Part # 272) forward of the hammer (Part # 271) into the

    magazine well.

    8. Lower the frame (Part # 210) into the grip (Part # 300) resting atop the

    instrument holding the hammer block (Part # 272) forward.**

    9. While maintaining downward pressure on the frame (Part # 210)

    remove the instrument allowing the frame (Part # 210) to sit flat in

    grip (Part # 300) with the hammer block (Part # 272) forward of the

    hammer(Part # 271).

    10. Repeat steps 1-3 in the reverse order to complete installation.



    ** Note: When reinstalling aluminum frame (Part # 210)into grip (Part # 300), the

    hammer block (Part # 272)must be positioned forward of the

    hammer (Part # 271) as the frame is seated in the grip (Part # 300).
     
    Last edited: Dec 7, 2017 at 2:33 AM
  11. TxCajun

    TxCajun Administrator Staff Member Supporter

    Sep 7, 2004
    Texas
    Wow! That's a nice reply. You probably should send it in. You might even get back a new gun with your old serial #. However, the gun does fire. Use the "machine parts" advice at your own peril.
     
  12. Bean

    Bean Member

    7
    Monday
    Yes I was thinking the same thing. I am going to fully disassemble it first then ship.
    I guess it will be 2-3 weeks until I have anymore information on this. I will be sure to post more on the topic when I get the ol p3at back. Again I really appreciate everyone here for helping with some really great information.
    God bless y’all.
     
  13. WildWes

    WildWes Member Supporter

    72
    Sep 9, 2004
    Wayne County, GA
    On one hand, you're probably going to get a new 2nd Gen P3aT. On the other, probably $15 worth of parts will revive your 1st Gen P3aT. I own both 1st/2nd gen KT's and for looks only, I prefer the 1st gens. I've also detail stripped the P-32, P3aT & LCP, so I'd probably keep the 1st gen P3aT and install the new parts. That said, there's nothing like a new gun. :)