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1/4 inch spacer/shim for muzzle device

261 Views 12 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  pbnationrc
So I have a can on my gun and I shoot out the end cap because the famous RDB muzzle nut came loose. This is a stupid design. I can't remove it and thread just the muzzle device because it bottoms out.

What have others done? Anyone use a 1/4" shim before the normal shims are added to time?
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Currently my cans are not direct thread. I still use the Rdb muzzle nut when adding my qd mount.
Currently my cans are not direct thread. I still use the Rdb muzzle nut when adding my qd mount.
How do you keep the KT nut and muzzle device from loosening?
I dont.Its on tight,and even if it wasnt,the brake also keeps it snug.

You could put locktite on it.
Seems like you could stack a few crush washers, or just hand tighten it and not worry. If it's semi-permanent use a weak locktight. One you can break free if needed, even with heat...
I dont.Its on tight,and even if it wasnt,the brake also keeps it snug.

You could put locktite on it.
Is there a particular locktite that is kosher for guns?
Seems like you could stack a few crush washers, or just hand tighten it and not worry. If it's semi-permanent use a weak locktight. One you can break free if needed, even with heat...
****, I wrench tightened it, my can came loose and I shot out my end cap...
****, I wrench tightened it, my can came loose and I shot out my end cap...
It seems to me your can should be straight, regardless of whether it's tight or a little loose, and you should be checking to see if it's backing off, if it's just screwed on.

Several people have made suggestions. Why not use a few lock nuts? Or if it's a semi-permanent mount, use some locktite?
It seems to me your can should be straight, regardless of whether it's tight or a little loose, and you should be checking to see if it's backing off, if it's just screwed on.

Several people have made suggestions. Why not use a few lock nuts? Or if it's a semi-permanent mount, use some locktite?
If a can is loose, it won't be straight. I don't have direct thread.

You should never use crush washers on a can, they aren't always straight.

I don't know what locktite to use on guns. I always though locktite on guns was a no no.
Loctite threadlockers are primarily designed to prevent fasteners from leaking or loosening from vibration. The difference between red and blue threadlocker is a matter of strength and removability. Loctite threadlocker blue is designed to easily be replaceable with common tools, whereas red is a more permanent fix.
Blue = removable
Red = semi-permanent (requires heating to loosen it.
Green = special use, it wicks into the joint of already installed fasteners.

You can use Loctite on firearms, the factory does.

Google is your friend. ;)
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The best thing I’ve ever tried.
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FLT, I was going to write that! (y) :)

Rocksett is the standard thread locker for cans. Just give it time to set up and if you need to remove it heat won't work. A water soak loosens it.

What do I use? All depends on the use. If I don't expect the can to heat up significantly I use Loc-Tite. If it's centerfire with a shoulder I use Rocksett. That would be .223/5.56 and many others. It doesn't take many rounds to really get the can hot because of the amount of powder in the cartridge.

I prefer a 3 lug adapter because once the can is in place it's there and done. But with direct thread after the can warms up it needs to be retightened. Once that's done (just once) after putting it on you won't need to do it again, but it doesn't hurt to check it to make sure. But you'll need to retighten every time it's installed.

I have just one can that's direct thread because the can lives on that 300BLK AR handgun. It rare for it ever to be removed. I have a piece of Manta silicone cover on the end of mine so that I can tighten it w/o burning myself. But now there are others that IMO look better than the Manta.
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FLT, I was going to write that! (y) :)

Rocksett is the standard thread locker for cans. Just give it time to set up and if you need to remove it heat won't work. A water soak loosens it.

What do I use? All depends on the use. If I don't expect the can to heat up significantly I use Loc-Tite. If it's centerfire with a shoulder I use Rocksett. That would be .223/5.56 and many others. It doesn't take many rounds to really get the can hot because of the amount of powder in the cartridge.

I prefer a 3 lug adapter because once the can is in place it's there and done. But with direct thread after the can warms up it needs to be retightened. Once that's done (just once) after putting it on you won't need to do it again, but it doesn't hurt to check it to make sure. But you'll need to retighten every time it's installed.

I have just one can that's direct thread because the can lives on that 300BLK AR handgun. It rare for it ever to be removed. I have a piece of Manta silicone cover on the end of mine so that I can tighten it w/o burning myself. But now there are others that IMO look better than the Manta.
Thats good info. Thank you! I never knew about tighten the DT can AFTER its warm. But thinking about that now makes sense. That's probably my problem with my jam nut coming loose making my can mount loose. That makes my Dual-Lok worthless at that point.

I will try Rockset, thanks guys!

BTW, what's up the three letter agency profile names! lol I was expecting ATF to respond next!
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