Been wanting to do this modification for over a year. Been inspired by the ingenuity of many on this board. This is the Zulu from Odin Works. I've included some build pictures below. Requires only a single modification as shown below. Thanks!
I first measured the length of the buffer tube supplied in the above linked kit.
Cutting and Drilling the buffer tube
The buffer tube is ever so slightly too small. It required that it be thinned out. Here is a picture afterwards. This part took the longest. I used the tools shown. A Dremel and a drill.
Here is the modded stop going back in to the stock buffer tube. Prior to installing the Odin Works Zulu on the Sub2000.
Next, I slid the modded buffer tube, over the stock buffer tube, installed my new fully adjustable butt stock, and finished with the replacement of the pin. The sleeve slid on really tight and firm. I love it!
Yes, it still folds...perfectly. Look at those tolerances.
LimbSaver. So much better than the OEM stock. Butt pad piece is able to be adjusted both up/down as well as forward and back.
I was hurrying to get this far, before I left this week for work. The thought that it will though, was obvious the moment I put it to my shoulder. I'll reply back, once I've gotten to put it through its paces.
If anyone is interested I could probably make a bolt on stock for the sub2000 like this that would still retain the locking mechanism and allow it to completely fold. Just need to know if anyone's interested before I spend too much time on it.
If anyone is interested I could probably make a bolt on stock for the sub2000 like this that would still retain the locking mechanism and allow it to completely fold. Just need to know if anyone's interested before I spend to much time on it.
It is pretty close to bolt on as presented. Definitely fewer steps than my Minimalist retrofit, and apparently just as (maybe more) effective.
My only question is cheek weld comfort. My cheek rests on the poly of the minimalist. I'm wondering if that pinch connection on the tube lands in a convenient spot.
You are correct and, the standard size AR-15 buffer tube is just a bit too thick to just slide on to the sub2000 buffer tube. Had to make it a touch bigger, until it was just big enough to tap into place.
After that, the Zulu slides on, and you pin the rear buffer assembly (recoil spring/plug) as normal.
It would probably be close to the same price as the Zulu stock, but can't say for sure yet. I'll try to get some work done on it soon. I need to get magazine base plates and a Nikon Spur mount done for the Pmr-30 first. I just purchased everything needed to get some measurements taken to make a prototype.
Probably around the $150 mark. I'll try to make it lower if possible. Just need to find out how much machine work will be needed. Won't know until I get everything designed.
Where can I get one of those straps to lock the gun back after doing the stock change? Also had a question on how the stock pad is adjusted up or down? Didn’t see how this is managed? Let me know and thanks in advance sir!
Already considering a second buffer tube design that goes all the way to the collar and incorporates a single point sling. Had no idea how I was going to work with a longer tube. This is it!
Did the Odin Works Zulu stock mod today, to a gen 1 Sub2K. I used the brake cylinder hone as suggested by the OP. It still took a couple of hours to complete, but I'm very happy with the results. I purchased the hone on amazon for around $12.
Sorry hadn't come back to this thread sooner to celebrate with you. That looks really sharp! Love how the bolt tube cover fits. I don't have one of those.
Can you link to the cylinder hone you used?
Next question, have you gotten some shooting time with it yet?
I couldn't be more pleased with the shouldering, especially after I lowered the stock height setting. For me, that perfected the sight picture. It's right on point every time.
Thanks Missionary. I have been wanting to try this since I first learned of the Odin Works stock.
The S2K is so small it needs a stock like this.
The drop on the toe of the Odin stock is exactly what S2K owners have been asking for for millinia. Any additional LOP is wanted, as long as it still can fold and stow Bonus points for the limbsaver.!
I think someone should make a shim kit for this stock. My 30mm scope rings have 1" shims. That's where my thoughts were.
Thanks Missionary. I have been wanting to try this since I first learned of the Odin Works stock.
The S2K is so small it needs a stock like this.
The drop on the toe of the Odin stock is exactly what S2K owners have been asking for for millinia. Any additional LOP is wanted, as long as it still can fold and stow Bonus points for the limbsaver.!
I think someone should make a shim kit for this stock. My 30mm scope rings have 1" shims. That's where my thoughts were.
Yeah? You saw this stock too. Been looking at it for so long, but just outside of my mental price range. That's what birthday's are for.
Shims would be a perfect solution. Thinning out that buffer tube was a chore. Another member accomplished the same with a brake cylinder hone. Odin should make them then market to us!
I cut both sides of the tube. I wanted the flared end of the tube to stay and be visible, as you can see in my pictures, to give the rear end a finished look.
I only cut one side of the tube. I wanted the flared end of the tube to stay and be visible, as you can see in my pictures, to give the rear end a finished look.
How long did it take to grind the ID to make it fit? That's the one part I'm potentially worried about screwing up. I got the one you suggested and seemed much easier than grinding it with a dremel.
And I assume you drilled out the hole in the buffer tube gradually? As opposed to just finding a bit that was the size needed.
Sorry for all the questions, super appreciate any feedback.
It took at least an hour. I actually had to purchase a second hone, because I wasn't paying attention and went too far in the tube and out the other side. This mangled the hone when it got twisted up on the edge or the tube coming back in. I flipped the tube around every so often, to hone from different ends. I noticed that more material seemed to be taken away faster from the entry side. Check the fit often, and cool the tube before testing the fit.
I did use a drill bit just a hair smaller than the pin to drill all the way through, with a drill press and a vice, then used the drill bit like a hone to make the hole the exact size. I worked on each side independently and tested the fit a bunch of times, until it was perfect.
It took at least an hour. I actually had to purchase a second hone, because I wasn't paying attention and went too far in the tube and out the other side. This mangled the hone when it got twisted up on the edge or the tube coming back in. I flipped the tube around every so often, to hone from different ends. I noticed that more material seemed to be taken away faster from the entry side. Check the fit often, and cool the tube before testing the fit.
I did use a drill bit just a hair smaller than the pin to drill all the way through, with a drill press and a vice, then used the drill bit like a hone to make the hole the exact size. I worked on each side independently and tested the fit a bunch of times, until it was perfect.
quick question, how is it when you need to field strip/clean the weapon? what all is involved AFTER installing this new buttstock? with the pictures, i assume you have to remove the buttstock each time you need to clean the weapon.
Been wanting to do this modification for over a year. Been inspired by the ingenuity of many on this board. This is the Zulu from Odin Works. I've included some build pictures below. Requires only a single modification as shown below. Thanks!
let me reword my question. it appears with your current stet up that the buttstock's position would currently physically interfere with removal of the bolt. i understand that the stock pin removal is same. so my question was, do you have to move (or remove) the buttstock to get the bolt out of the weapon?
let me reword my question. it appears with your current stet up that the buttstock's position would currently physically interfere with removal of the bolt. i understand that the stock pin removal is same. so my question was, do you have to move (or remove) the buttstock to get the bolt out of the weapon? thanks in advance!
Thank you. Yes, It would be the same. Loosen the hex bolts enough to release the grip on the buttstock length adjustment. Turn it to either side so the bolt assembly can be removed.
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