New and even used firearms can often benefit from polishing key parts...
Kel-Tec Owner's Group - The Community for Kel-Tec Shooters
If there is anybody who has a sub 9 and has taken pictures of it disassembled I would greatly appreciate it.
Plus if anyone can just take pictures of the last shot bolt hold open mechanism that would be great too.
Has anyone figure it out or thought about incorporating a last shot bolt hold option on the sub2k?
I would like to see how it was set up on the sub 9. I'm assuming it was the receiver or the buffer tube because on the sub 2K would be impossible to mount it on plastic
Just picked up a new Gen 2 S2K to play with. Took it to the range yesterday and went thru a box trying to get zeroed in. Initially she shot pretty low and to the left at 25yds but was able to get that pretty well corrected. I'm probably going to get a Bushnell TRS 25 but I'm at a loss as to what QD riser to get to attach to the RD and to the top picatinney (know this would need sanding) but I don't want a side mount. If I can, I would opt for a 1/3rd cowitness mount. Can you guys point me to a specific QD mount to solve my problem?
Was thinking about mounting a Primary Arms CQB ACSS 2.5X on my RDB.
I shoot my ARs primarily 25 yards. My reasoning: the rifles I own are for defensive use. Also I shoot at local indoor ranges where the lanes are 25 yards max.
As I looked more into it the CQB and it’s philosophy of use it seems that, for my needs, it may be a little more than I need.
Am I mistaken?
First let me note I own 2 P3ATs and a KSG and have absolutely zero issues with them via 1000s of rounds. I wish I could say the same for my RFB.
Up front questions:
-Are newer bolts black? (nitride or the like vs the other coatings)
-Should the bolt have a flat section where the 332 cam pin rides?
-Should there be a stiff part of charging prior to hammer cock at approximately 1 inch pull?
-After cocking should there be a stiff region approximately 2 inches into charge handle pull?
I just received my new long-lusted-after S2K and had already planned/ordered many of the add-ons I knew I would want:
Sumo charging handle: Check
22 round .40 S&W mag: Check
Tacticool tube cover: Check
M-Lok rail to attach to the starboard side of the forend: Check
Red dot sight: Check
Aftermarket Allen head assembly screws to replace the phillips head...uhhh...the phillips head, ummmm...
I am looking into options to mount an Aimpoint T1 on a Sub2000 I plan on purchasing. I would prefer something that's not offset and that allows the rifle to fold when not in use. So far it looks like I have 3 options:
I have a CMR coming in a few days. I currently have a PMR.
For the CMR does anyone know where I can get a muzzle brake and what is the ‘norm’ forend handle people on here are using?
And any other basic advice/input on anything CMR?
These little guns aren't meant to be range toys buy I shoot my Kel-tec pocket guns a lot. I put at least a box through my P32 or P3AT at each range trip. When you shoot a gun a lot, you really get to know it and have a feel for it. Anyway, during my last range trip I put about 60 rounds through my P32. All rounds cycled and fired fine, but twice during the session my trigger broke just a little farther back than usual. It wasn't much, and someone not familiar with the gun probably wouldn't have noticed. But it took just a hair more rearward motion to fire the gun. It happened randomly and a few rounds apart.
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