PF9 DISASSEMBLY AND REPAIR

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This is a work in progress.

CONTENTS:

POST * * * *SUBJECT
0 * FIELD STRIP INSTRUCTIONS
1 * EXTRACTOR AND FIRING PIN
1 * REPLACING RUSTY HAMMER-BLOCK PIN
2 * SIGHTS
3 * REPLACING EJECTOR & FIX FOR WALKING EJECTOR PIN
4 * MAGAZINE CATCH
5 * MAGAZINE and IF SLIDE FAILS TO LOCK BACK
6 * FRAME REMOVAL
7 * HAMMER SPRING
8 * TRIGGER PARTS--TRIGGER CLICKS, IS ROUGH OR WON'T FIRE
9 * HAMMER BLOCK/GRIP CHANGE
10 *IF TRIGGER SPRING POPS OUT
11 *REASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
12 *SOME PF9 *MODIFICATIONS:
* ** LHS INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
WILSON SCALLOP EJECTOR MOD
* * *STRAIGHTENING THE P-9 ACCESSORY RAIL
* * *Easy trigger stop for PF-9
* * *SMOOTHING AND DESNAGGING THE GRIP
13* ACCURACY TIPS
14 *DAT INSTALLATION

PF9 FIELD STRIP INSTRUCTIONS:

DISASSEMBLY: * *
* *
* 1) Lock back your slide. Remove magazine. * *
* *
* 2) Lay unloaded gun on right side on padding or newspaper. You will see the assembly pin highlighted in the big rectangular slide cut-out:

* *
* *
* 3) Hook rim of case into top of assembly pin, while keeping pressure down on the grip area beside the pin. * *
* *
* 4) Slowly WIGGLE out the assembly pin. * *
* *
* 5) Point nose of pistol upward. Pull back on slide and, while holding it, slowly let it go forward:



push slide off towards front. You now have three *pieces of gun. If for any reason, slide will not come off the rails: Push barrel in from front and let slide go forward. *
* *
* 6) hold the slide upside down in your right hand with tip of thumb against back of recoil spring. * *
* *
* 7) Hold spring down with left hand (so it doesn't fly off) and SLOWLY push spring forward and slightly up with thumb. Ease the pressure off, let spring slowly expand and remove it. * *
* *
* 8] Push barrel up from bottom, wiggle it, and pull it up and back to remove it. * *
* *
* This is as far as you need to go to inspect, clean and lube. * *
* *
REASSEMBLY:
* *
* 1) Place barrel back into slide. If you haven't already done so, slightly bevel the front of the recoil guide rod with file and/or sandpaper. *
* *
* 2) Replace springs on guide rod. It doesn't matter which way they go. Poke tip of spring and guide rod into hole in front of slide. * *
* *
* 3) while controlling spring with left hand, push spring forward with thumb so guide rod slides into hole and allow it to seat in the barrel. Make sure the guide rod is in the barrel SOCKET and not on the SHELF in front of the socket. You are now back to 3 pieces. * *
* *
* 4) Make sure the hammer is pulled back to "Half C o c k." *Push slide back onto frame rails. Insert EMPTY magazine.* *
* *
* 5) Hold pistol pointing toward floor. * *
* *
* 6 Push barrel down slightly through ejection slot:



You will feel it release from lock. Now hold it there while shifting your grip so barrel STAYS depressed while slide goes back. This is IMPORTANT. If you don't release barrel from lock, then it won't travel forward enough to install assembly pin. And THEN it may be hard to get the slide to come off of the rails.

* Not doing this could also cause the recoil spring guide rod to slip out of its socket, run itself back into the magazine well, and jam the slide.
* *
* 7) Still pointing toward floor, and holding barrel unlocked, push slide back until it locks on the empty magazine. * *
* *
* 8] Pull barrel sharply toward floor. * *
* *
* 9) Insert assembly pin with groove upward, and *while wiggling barrel, push to seat. Make sure you hear a distinct CLICK as the pin seats. CAUTION: AN UNSEATED PIN CAN WALK OUT DURING FIRING AND RUIN THE FRAME.* *
* *
* 10) Insert snap cap in magazine, rack slide to chamber it and dry fire to make sure all is well. * *
* *
That's it. * *
* *
Enjoy, Packer.

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REPLACING RUSTY HAMMER BLOCK PIN iis at the END of this post.

EXTRACTOR AND FIRING PIN REMOVAL AND REPLACEMENT.

TO REMOVE AND INSTALL extractor First order new extractor, spring and new hardened button head screw. Buy some blue loctite. You will need a 5/64" Allen Wrench:

WITHOUT MESSING WITH FIRING PIN: *
*
1. Dry fire. (With AZoom snap cap)*
2. Leave hammer down. Do not move slide. This will hold firing pin in place. *
3. Remove button head screw. Heat loosen if necessary.


*
4. Remove old spring and extractor:



*Clean away any carbon deposits under extractor and spring and ON spring. (Or on extractor if you are reusing it)
5. Replace extractor and spring. *
6. Apply a wee bit of loctite on threads just under head of screw. *
7. If slide has not been moved: Install screw and tighten. *

REMOVE AND INSTALL FIRING PIN:

TOOLS AND MATERIALS NEEDED, 5/64” Allen wrench, Needle nosed pliers, Coffee stirrer, Drill bits. Blue Loctite, Silicone Spray.

This is not hard to do:

* The screw (On the right side of slide.) might be hard to remove, (Usually isn't.) due to a chewed up end. You might have to heat it up with a hairdryer or soldering iron to loosen the Loctite.
*
How to remove FP: *
*
1. Lock slide back. *
2. Remove slide. *
3. With rear of slide resting on bunched up towel, unscrew right-side Allen screw until FP is loose. It should be touching towel at this point, and it will fall out when you lift the gun. If it does NOT fall out, then you will have to grasp it with needle nosed pliers and pull it out.



* If spring is broken, you will have to beat it out by hitting back of slide against towel. A thin piece of wire pushed in from breech face may help to push out all pieces.

Using a properly sized drill bit, (by hand) ream out the inside of the FP channel to clean up any sharp projections that can snag and break spring:



THIS IS AN IN-AND-OUT MOTION, NOT A TWISTING ONE. CAUTION: DO NOT ENLARGE FIRING PIN CHANNEL. You may find quite a few filings on the drill afterwards:



*Check end of screw: If it is buggered up from dry firing, either file/sand it smooth or replace it.

* Clean out hole thoroughly to make sure there are no metal shavings in there. A pipe cleaner twisty works well.

INSTALL FIRING PIN: *First spray a little Silicone spray into FP chamber.

1. Install the extractor, spring and slightly start the button head screw. Apply a little blue Loctite (just a tiny dab with a toothpick.) under head of screw. Slide a coffee stirrer onto the projecting “pin” on the back of the Firing Pin.



Install spring onto the Firing Pin and insert the Firing Pin into its channel. Turn Firing Pin (with coffee stirrer) *so notch is below the screw.



2. Hold FP in and slowly tighten screw The screw should turn easily until it is tight. If you encounter any resistance—STOP and make sure the firing pin can move. The Firing Pin notch may not be in proper position for the screw to enter it.

* You don't want to screw too fast into the Firing Pin and bugger it up. Don't really tighten down screw until you are SURE that the firing pin moves easily in and out.



3. Now push firing pin in and out. Make sure it moves freely.

That's it.

REPLACING RUSTY HAMMER BLOCK PIN:

* See that shiny pin at the back? Yours may not BE shiny:



* You CAN do this without removing hammer block. (What can be a difficult job.)

1. First call KT service, (1-800-515-9983) and have them send you a new hammer-block pin.

2. Remove slide.

3. Lube new pin up good and (from the left side and with right side sitting on a socket or UMC cartridge caddy, drive out the old pin while driving IN the new pin.

Originally Posted by ktwm

BTW the hammer block pin is NOT symetrical so you have to drive it in in the correct orientation. if you look at your parts diagram you should be able to tell how it orients. (The 2 grooves are off center and should be off to the right side fo the gun)


The easiest solution would be to simply rub or sand off the rust and cold-blue the ends of the pins. Then just save the new pin.

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REPLACING SIGHTS

INSTRUCTION FOR REPLACING PF-9 FRONT SIGHT:

* *The PF-9/P11 front sight has two little plastic legs under it. The sight is attached by putting the legs through the two holes in the top of the slide and peening over (melting) the plastic legs on the inside of the slide.

TO REMOVE SIGHT:

* With a soldering iron or woodburner iron, (or something that you heated in the gas stove burner) gently heat the two prongs until they soften enough to pull the sight out with pliers. Now clean all residual plastic out of the slide.

TO INSTALL SIGHT:

* Place new sight into holes. (make sure dot is facing rear.) With aforesaid melting tool, gently peen over the ends of the legs while holding pressure down on the sight to assure a tight fit. Make sure that no plastic hangs down to interfere with barrel.

REAR SIGHT:



* The PF-9 rear sight is held in place by a shorter version of the extractor screw:



The SIGHT screw has letters head stamped onto it-- You can almost read the "YFS" letters on this sight screw.

CAUTION: NEVER INSTALL THE SIGHT SCREW AS AN EXTRACTOR SCREW--DOING THIS MIGHT ALLOW THE FIRING PIN TO ESCAPE AND HIT YOU IN THE EYE WHEN SHOOTING.

TO REMOVE REAR SIGHT:

Remove sight screw and lift off sight.

TO ADJUST REAR SIGHT FOR WINDAGE:

Loosen sight screw. if pont of impact is left of the target, move sight to the right and vice versa.

TO ADJUST SIGHT FOR ELEVATION:

* This sight was originally designed so that you could RAISE the point of impact by adding shims under the screw--But the gun usually shoots high!

* To lower POI, you would have to remove the sight and carefully sand away some of the thickness of the sight bottom on a flat sheet of 200 sandpaper. You would then either have to shorten the sight screw, or install a thin washer under the screw head.

CAUTION: AN UNSHORTENED SCREW COULD RUIN YOUR SLIDE.

* This would best be done at the range, so each minor adjustment could be tested. NEVER remove more than 1/64 inch from the sight.

A NICE REAR SIGHT MOD:

* Using a center punch, you could lightly mark a dot on the slide, centered on the front of the sight. This would give you an indicator mark for reference to the sight adjustment.

SIGHT DOTS:

* The sight dots are just white paint. Sometimes the rear sight dots may fall out. If they do, just use a toothpick to fill the empty hole with white paint.

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AT HOME REPAIR FOR WALKING EJECTOR PIN:
'
http://www.thektog.org/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1202779401


REMOVING AND INSTALLING EJECTOR:

UNLOAD AND FIELD STRIP. YOU DO NOT HAVE TO REMOVE FRAME FROM GRIP--Just carefully drop hammer out of the way.

* With the gun laying on it's right side, you will see the pin that holds the ejector:



you will need to have it laying on a hard protective surface (I use the black "crate" from UMC FMJ ammo.) that is on top of something unyielding like a concrete floor or an anvil.

* Now, with the proper size pin punch, (You can get a really nice set at Sears for about $4.)

1. Drive the pin down and all the way out:



(On the P-11, there is a hole on the other side of the frame, so you don't have to remove the pin completely and can drive it back in from behind)
2. Find the removed pin if you can.
3. Remove the old ejector and slide in the new one.
4. With a thin wire or bent paper clip, form a "slave" pin and stick it up through the hole from the inside.
5. Now slide the roll pin down onto the "slave" pin and lightly tap it until it starts to enter the new ejector.



If you have trouble getting it started, you can squeeze the end of the roll pin tighter with pliers.

6. Using a pin punch larger than the roll pin, (So you don't bugger up the frame or the end of the pin.) finish driving it down and in.

That's it.

Packer.

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REPLACING MAGAZINE CATCH

METHOD 1. Remove frame from grip. Mag catch is easily accessable then.

METHOD 2 WITH FRAME STILL IN GRIP:

1. REMOVE MAGAZINE, UNLOAD AND FIELD STRIP.

2. Using a small screwdriver, working either from the botom up or the top down through mag well, hook top of magazine catch spring and pry it out from under the frame.

* While holding it there, Grasp it with needle nosed pliers and pull it out.



* Another way to do this is to use 2 screwdrivers, one to pry out the spring and another to pry spring up and out.

CAUTION: SPRING MAY FLY. MAKE SURE IT IS NOT POINTED AT YOUR FACE!



* Now you can push the old mag catch out.

INSTALLATION:

1. *Slide new catch into place and hold it fully in.

2. With good light from over your shoulder: From top of mag well, and holding spring in needle nosed pliers with long side on left, poke long side of spring down into mag catch hole.



3. With pliers or screwdriver, push right side of spring forward until it clicks into place.



4. Inspect spring. The right side should be all the way forward. If not, make it so.

5. Make sure top of spring is tucked back under frame.

TROUBLESHOOTING:

If, after you have installed the mag catch the magazine jams in the grip and won't come out:

* You have not latched the right side of the spring properly.

1. Carefully remove the floorplate from the magazine. (Hold the spring from flying out)
2. Now, with a common flat bladed screwdriver, gently pry the mag from the bottom (by the floorplate tabs) while holding in the mag release.
3. Reinstall the spring, making sure that the right side snaps into place.

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DISSASSEMBLING MAGAZINE:

1. UNLOAD MAGAZINE.
2. Using Assembly pin, poke it into the hole at bottom of mag plate.
3. Pull the pin and the plate forward about 1/4 inch.
4.There is a big long compressed spring inside.
CAUTION, THINGS WILL FLY AT YOUR FACE IF YOU JUST PULL IT OFF.
5. Point the bottom of the mag at a folded towel and carefully pull off the plate.
6. All of the parts *are now free to come out. You might have to shake or push the follower out though.
7. Notice how the magazine retainer plate fits onto the spring bottom. Try to keep it on the spring if possible, so you know which end was up.



Assembly:

1. Slide follower, with highest *point facing forward, into the magazine body.
2. Slide spring, with highest point facing forward, into magazine body.
3. Install retainer plate by holding it with the button facing the spring, and sliding the spring into it.
4. Now flip the plate down so the button faces AWAY from the spring.
5. Push bottom of retainer plate, and spring, into the magazine body and hold it in with your finger.

CAUTION: IF SPRING ESCAPES, IT CAN HURT YOU! HOLD IT IN TIGHTLY! KEEP IT POINTED AWAY FROM YOUR FACE AND AT THE TOWEL.

6. Slide the base plate onto the magazine rails and move your finger out of the way as it travels forward.
7. Whack the back of the magazine against the towel to seat the retainer button.

MAGAZINE PROBLEMS

Originally Posted by Chard

All I can load is six rounds in a mag marked 7.
Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Chard

Originally Posted by PshootR

Do you have a second properly working PF-9 mag? If so, disassemble and compare both. Otherwise, disassemble the mag you have and remove any casting flash from the plastic follower and lightly sand it all over. On reassembly, check that the spring is seated properly and not bent. Sometimes new mags require unusual force to load the rated number of rounds the first few times. I have two 15 round Glock factory .40 S&W mags that are difficult (one) and impossible (the other) to load with more than 14 rounds. They both came with the used Sub 2000 I recently purchased.

Does your magazine follower look like this?



* This wear to the soft plastic follower is caused by the spinning extracted case hitting the follower with its rim. It only happens with the last round in the mag.

* The only known cure, (So far) is *to count your rounds and never shoot the last round out of the magazine. Then the wear will stop.

IF SLIDE FAILS TO LOCK BACK:

http://www.thektog.org/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1206993522#11

* Is your slide stop tab gouging a hole in the left front of the follower? Call KT Service 1-800-515-9983 and order a new free slide stop replacement and follower.

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PF9 FRAME REMOVAL



Unload and field strip. Use a container to hold the parts as you remove them:



The above pic was taken on zeke's workbench during the original Shootnic, 10/28/06.

* * *2. Place pad of something to protect the frame in front of the hammer, (It may crack if you let the hammer hit this weak area.) pull the trigger and let the hammer fall. This will prevent over stretching the hammer spring

* * 3.With a common screwdriver, gently pry the hammer spring retainer BARELY out of the bottom of the grip and ease it back and down into the magazine well. Picture is shown for clarity. YOU MUST CONTROL SPRING CATCH WITH YOUR FINGERS:





Using a sharp nail, screw or knife, (A drywall screw works well) mark an X on the left side of each of the 3 frame pins:



With the pistol laying on its left side, on something like a UMC hard plastic cartridge rack, drive out the three frame pins with a pin punch. If you don't own pin punches: Sears sells a nice set for 3 or 4 dollars.



See the shiny metal pin at the middle right of this picture? (Yours may not be shiny.) That is the hammer block pin. LEAVE THIS ALONE UNLESS YOU ABSOLUTELY NEED TO WORK ON THE HAMMER BLOCK!. REMOVING THE SHINY PIN WILL COMPLICATE THINGS EXCESSIVELY!



Now you will want to gently pull the FRONT of the frame up about ¼ inch. There are three things here that must be controlled as you remove the frame: The trigger bar on the right, and the slide stop and spring on the left. Pulling the frame without holding these parts down will cause them to fly out. As you pull up on the front, slide your thumb and index fingers down the sides onto these parts and hold them in place while you pull the frame (with hammer spring dangling) out of the grip





While holding the slide stop and spring on the other side, pull the trigger bar up and off of the trigger spring.



* *Next, while holding the slide stop spring down, remove the slide stop and then the spring.





You can never have too many pictures! here is an excellent version of PF-9 disassembly posted by zeke;

http://www.thektog.org/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1166663996
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REMOVING AND INSTALLING HAMMER SPRING

On the left rear of the frame, you will see the hammer pin sticking out slightly:



You will want to remove this, if it hasn’t already fallen out:



. The hammer assembly can now be pulled from the bottom of the frame. Note that the spring is connected to the FRONT of the hammer bottom, and that’s how the hammer will be reassembled to the frame.



ATTACHING HAMMER TO NEW SPRING:

This is a P11, but the PF9 hammer attaches exactly the same way.

Notice how the hammer is installed into the spring. The long shaft is to the front, and the end of the loop is to the rear: The new spring must be installed exactly this way:



It makes a difference which side of the pin you poke out. Done properly, you will only drive the pin about 1/16" and then the spring loop will slide out:



So we will want to drive the pin from the side that is at the bottom in the above picture.

Using the large hole in another P-11 hammer as a "hole anvil" (Sitting on a hard unyielding surface like steel or a concrete floor.) and a 1/16" pin punch, knock the hammer pin slightly out of the hammer:



When finished, the large end of the hammer spring will slip out and the hammer pin will protrude slightly like this:



Now lay aside the stock hammer spring. Lay the hammer flat with the pin sticking up. Notice that there are two different ends on the hammer spring. The loop on one end is somewhat larger than the loop on the other end.

Insert the larger loop of the new spring into the hammer. Make sure that long shaft is to front. While holding it centered, tap the pin gently, once.



At this point, even though the pin is not yet all the way in, the spring loop should be captured. Check that loop of spring moves freely and is not trapped beneath the pin. If loop is trapped, drive pin slightly out and start again.

With a larger pin punch, (so as to not burr up the end of the hammer pin) drive the pin home until it is flush with the top surface of the hammer.


CONTINUED NEXT POST:

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REMOVING AND INSTALLING TRIGGER PARTS

REMOVING TRIGGER: Tools needed: 1/16 inch pin punch, hammer, wooden blocks, firm surface like concrete, blue Loctite.

TRIGGER REMOVAL PROCEDURE:

REMOVE FRAME FROM GRIP AS ABOVE

1.*Set frame upright between two wooden blocks so trigger hangs down freely. These blocks should be sitting on a solid surface like concrete or an anvil. When looking down on frame above trigger, you will see a small hole. This is the trigger-pin access hole.
2.*Move trigger back so pin is visible through hole.
3.*Trigger spring, trigger-axis and trigger are locked together by trigger-pin. Notice which way the spring arm points so you know how to put it back together. In this picture you can see the head of the trigger pin and imagine its path as it descends through the trigger, trigger axis and trigger spring:



4.*Drive trigger-pin down and out with punch and hammer. It may help to first heat the pin head with a hairdryer to loosen any Loctite. CAUTION: DON'T MELT THE TRIGGER!
5.*Push trigger axis out the right side of frame and trigger spring comes with it.
6.*Trigger can now be pulled out of bottom of frame.
7. Polish all friction surfaces with 400/600 sandpaper, clean and oil well.

INSTALLATION:

1. Insert new trigger up through frame.
2. Insert pin slightly into trigger.
3. Insert trigger axis into frame and trigger.
4. Remember how the spring looked before?



*You will know if you get it reversed because it will point backward instead of forward. With the arm pointing forward, put spring into the hollow of the trigger axis so loop will engage trigger pin when you pound it in.
5. With a toothpick, put just a tiny drop of blue locktite just under the head of the pin.
6. Insert the 1/16" pin punch down through the trigger axis and spring and into the trigger.
7. *Now, while holding pin punch in place, drive the pin into the trigger, forcing the pin punch out as the trigger pin goes through the spring and axis.
8. When it is properly seated, the head of the pin will be flat against the bottom of the trigger.

TRIGGER IS ROUGH OR CLICKS OR DOES NOT FIRE THE GUN:

FIRST, check that the trigger pin is not backing out of the bottom of the trigger. If that is tight, the grip is probably bowed out at the right rear:

http://www.thektog.org/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1207027325#2

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REMOVING AND INSTALLING HAMMER BLOCK



* One of these days I will find time to photo shoot this.

Meantime, this site has instructions for a P-32 that apply:

http://www.geocities.com/pocketguns/P32grip.html