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Old 02-28-2011, 12:42 PM   #1
chilipepper
 
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Default Installing flash suppressor on SU-16C

I am wondering if anybody else has had this situation.

I just received my YHM phantom 5C2 over the weekend.

After hand tightening the suppressor up to the crush washer, I have 3/4 turn to get the non-slotted portion to the 6 o'clock position. (270 degree turn) Is there enough travel in the crush washer to get it to that position without damaging the threads?

Also, will the suppressor loosen over time without applying blue loctite?

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Old 02-28-2011, 04:27 PM   #2
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Default Re: Installing flash suppressor on SU-16C

The crush washer should compress that much without a problem.

I wouldn't use loctite for that, the crush washer will hold it fine, that's what it does.

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Old 02-28-2011, 06:44 PM   #3
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Default Re: Installing flash suppressor on SU-16C

I've been in contact with Yankee Hill tech support.

They are saying that there is only 180 degrees of turn once the suppressor contacts the crush washer, but I need 270 degrees. They said I must be doing something wrong, that I should not have to turn more than 180 degrees. Is the threading on the SU-16C different from that of a standard threaded AR barrel? I don't know. What would happen if I try to turn more than 180 degrees? Would I damage the threaded barrel or just ruin the crush washer?

They also said that I should not use two crush washers. That is not their purpose.

Interestingly, I took the crush washer off and threaded the suppressor on, and voila', it stopped in the correct position. So if that is how I install it, then I would assume I'd have to loctite the threads to prevent loosening.

Which way should I go? Try and turn more than 180 degrees or just eliminate the crush washer.

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Old 02-28-2011, 06:45 PM   #4
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Default Re: Installing flash suppressor on SU-16C

The recommended torque for a flash suppressor is 20 ft/lbs IIRC. I don't think the crush washer will crush that much though(3/4 turn). You can try sanding it down slightly and see if that helps. Mine was the same way when I mounted mine, it just took awhile to get it clocked right. Good luck.




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Old 02-28-2011, 07:23 PM   #5
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Default Re: Installing flash suppressor on SU-16C

Try pre crushing the washer in a vise before you install it. I have done this a few times with good luck, just make sure you sandwich the washer in leather so you do not scar it up.

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Old 03-01-2011, 02:10 AM   #6
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Default Re: Installing flash suppressor on SU-16C

I didn't have a vice to pre-crush the crush washer, so I just wrapped in in some material and beat on it with a hammer... got the job done ;D

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Old 03-01-2011, 04:08 PM   #7
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Default Re: Installing flash suppressor on SU-16C

Glad I could help.

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Old 03-01-2011, 04:28 PM   #8
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Default Re: Installing flash suppressor on SU-16C

You could use a jamb nut instead, but like I said you could sand the crush washer on the flat side like I suggested being you already have it.






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Old 03-01-2011, 04:43 PM   #9
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Default Re: Installing flash suppressor on SU-16C

I had a similar problem with my rifle. Peel washers are wonderful in this application. You buy one, heat it (I used a propane torch) until it splits into very thin shims, then stack them as needed. I installed mine two years ago with a bit of nail-polish as thread locker, and haven't looked back since.

MidwayUSA Link:
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=654454

Took a pic of mine for ya.


If you're happy with the pre-crushed crush washer, awesome. If not, give one of these a go. You will have better control over the torque you apply to the threads this way, which, depending on which internet "authority" you choose to believe, may or may not affect accuracy.

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Old 03-03-2011, 05:18 PM   #10
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Default Re: Installing flash suppressor on SU-16C

Well....... pre-crushing the washer in a vice didn't work so well. I crushed it in the vice a little bit and checked to see if it made a difference. It didn't. I progressively applied more pressure and checking the progress, but now I can't get the washer over the threads to see if it helped. It reduced the inside diameter of the washer. And I don't want to coax the washer over the threads for fear of damaging them. I guess there would be no way to change out suppressors, or at least crush washers down the road, if the inside diameter changes once it is crushed, because it wouldn't slide back over the threads.

I'm not sure what practical application the peel washers would achieve in my instance, either. Without any washer, the suppressor is already properly oriented *with the non-slotted position at 6 o'clock. So adding those won't help me.

So, I guess I am going to go without any washers and loctite the threads. I'll let everybody know if there are any problems with this solution.

Thanks to everybody for their suggestions.

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